K'Gari

Saturday, 10 July, 2004 by Cheryl W. Colan

We started the day at 4:30 a.m. The stars were still out, and just before dawn Orion was visible on the horizon, rising - upside-down from my point of view - with the moon. Then a cloud obscured the constellation. We got up, packed our things and ate breakfast as quickly as we could. We all worked to load our two 4X4s and trailer. Sleeping bags and thermal mats went on top of the Land Rover, covered by tarp and then bunjied down. Our bags went into the trailer with the spare tire, as well as our two ice chests filled with provisions. The we piled in seven to a vehicle and headed for the ferries.

The sun was rising on our drive to the dock. On our way we spotted a rainbow blessing our trip. About 15 to 20 vehicles lined up in three or four rows. We had to back onto the ferry. Once everyone was aboard the ferry chugged up to speed. We saw dolphins off the coast as we got underway, and one came over to see what we were about. We also saw a couple of eagles looking for fish, and many other sea birds. We could see rain clouds over Frasier Island as we left. At one point I shot a stunning photo as the sun climbed above the clouds and began to burn them off. The air was cold but very refreshing.

Once we arrived at the island everyone drove off the ferry. All the roads, indeed the whole 75 mile stretch of island, are pristine fine white sand. No pavement anywhere. On the inland roads, the vehicles make ruts in the sand while the tree roots create humps, so the ride can get very bumpy. If the sand is loose, it is also easy to get stuck unless the vehicle has a running start. There is usually only one lane. When you encounter another vehicle, one of you must reverse and allow the other to pass.

Central Station & Wanggoolba Creek

Central Station was our first stop. It’s near the center of the island and was the perfect first stop. Chris and Malcolm, our guides, gave us a few moments to tour a little exhibit on the plants, animals and history of Fraser Island, which was originally inhabited by the Butchalla people. They still own about six or seven acres of land near the sea. They have a claim in for the whole island, but there is such a big tourist trade that I feel certain our new friends will have to really fight for it. The Aborigines have long believed that land cannot be owned, but what they are really fighting for is to control it and manage it the way they have for 60,000 years. I know I will be tuned in to news relating to this issue. But back to Central Station and today.

We walked around the area on a well-maintained trail. As we stepped onto a wooden bridge, Chris pointed out the creek below. I looked but didn’t see anything but sand. As I walked taking in the scent and sights of the rain forest, I kept looking down every once in awhile hoping to see what must be a tiny creek. When I finally perceived a faint ripple, I was absolutely stunned to realize the water was perfectly clear! The white sand at the bottom of the creek was all I could see, and it took me awhile to comprehend that there was really about two feet of water down there. Absolutely pure and beautiful water. I was awestruck. Once I found a spot with some reflection from the sky, I took several photos. I went on to photograph the incredible plant life: the largest stag-horn ferns I’ve ever seen, the beautiful King fern, which only grows in this creek on this island, the huge trees surrounded by strangling vines, orange mushrooms, and on and on and on.

Lake McKenzie, Eli Creek, The Wreck of the S.S. Maheno

Next we stopped at Lake McKenzie, the bluest, clearest, loveliest lake I’ve ever seen. I took off my shoes and waded in the surprisingly warm water. I silently vow to swim here if we make it back before we leave the island. There were tiny beautiful swallows with colors like hummingbirds zooming over the water. The lake was popular with backpackers; there were many of them there swimming. I could tell the place would be stunningly quiet if you were there alone.

Lunch was a meat pie and half a sausage roll. I spent two Australian dollars on eight minutes of Internet access to check my email, only to find no word from my husband. We moved on to he beach freeway after lunch. We stopped at the meeting of Eli Creek with the ocean. It’s a beautiful area and looks like a popular place to stop for a swim. There are trails and bridges so you can hike and explore. You can also hike up the creek until you’re tired, then jump in and float back down to the ocean. If I ever have a week or two here, I plan to spend a whole day doing just that.

We also saw the Maheno shipwreck. I’m sure it’s not as large, but it looks like the footage of the Titanic, except instead of ghostly white in the depths of the sea, it’s beautifully rusted due to exposure to the air. A luxury passenger ship, the Maheno was apparently empty and was being towed to Japan for scrapping when it was driven ashore by a cyclone in 1935. We saw it today with the tide coming in. We could just walk up to within about ten feet of it without getting our feet wet. When the tide is out you can probably walk out far enough to see the other side of the ship. I wonder how long it will remain here.

Settling In

Around 2:30 p.m. we made it to the Butchalla lands and unpacked our gear. We briefly met Auntie Pauline, a Butchalla elder woman who lives in a little house on this land. She’s alone here a lot of the time. I think I could get to like her lifestyle. It’s clear she lives simply, but she’s surrounded by beauty, and has a nice little library of reading material. We’re having some quiet time now. Some are showering, Mom is sleeping, and others are journalling. The ocean is so close we can hear its lullaby. I’m going to sleep like a baby tonight. The men are staying a short walk away, in a big tent permanently erected on a nice wooden deck. They’re close to the latrines, and I saw them raking the nearby paths clear - good men! The women are staying in a round structure with a corrugated tin roof and plastic screening, but otherwise it’s open-air. I’ve had one mosquito bite already, and I quickly applied insect repellant afterward. Our guides are building us a fire for warmth and cooking. I’m going to go see if I can help. …

… Picking up again, there’s a pregnant dingo running around our camp. She clearly wants any food we may leave out. We can’t feed her. There’s a $3,000 fine for feeding the wildlife here, because the government wants the dingos and other animals to remain wild. Rumor has it that an aboriginal woman feeds the dingos when they’re having a hard time finding food, but I wouldn’t know.

Earlier while I was writing, Roger and Linda walked down to the beach and saw another rainbow. They also saw six distinct whale spouts just off shore, which they watched for about fifteen minutes. We’re told there are poisonous snakes here that look exactly like tree bark. We need to keep to the trails. Now I’m particularly grateful to the men for raking them clear. There are huge spiders everywhere, including in our toilets, just below the rim. I don’t think any of us will be having a seat.

We’ve got a fire going, and Mom is baking potatoes for us. We cut them in half for faster baking, and I helped wrap them in foil. Our kitchen lights just went out. They’ve been flickering on and off, and Chris and Malcolm have been scrambling to keep them running long enough for us to eat. We’re on battery power, and it seems we’re in need of a charge. The sun sets fast here. There’s just a smidgen of light in the sky, sunlight reflecting off the clouds, and the sun has gone below the horizon. Without the kitchen lights it is nearly pitch black. I’m wondering if we can have a moonlight walk on the beach, but I doubt there’s enough moon to provide light.

My word for the day is K’Gari, which means “Princess” in the Butchalla language, and is their name for Fraser Island. It’s a lot more descriptive of the actual place than the name given it by the wife of a white guy who went down with his ship. I’ve never been anywhere quite so magical, blissful, and in command of my utmost awe and respect. Yet the island’s a gracious lady, providing delight, endless entertainments, warmth and comfort, and the best refreshment imaginable to our thirsty lips - delicious clear water purified by pristine sand, better than the finest champagne.